Veliko Tarnovo is one of our favorite hidden gems of Eastern Europe that so many tourists miss altogether — we can't wait to introduce you to it! If Eastern Europe isn't on your travel wish list yet, let's fix that right now. So many people head to the oh-so-popular destinations in Western Europe, so Eastern countries like Bulgaria often get overlooked. We're big fans of Western Europe, so we're not telling you to avoid those dream cities like Paris and Rome. But there are places like Veliko Tarnovo that we have a feeling you may not have even heard of yet.
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The secret is that Eastern Europe is hiding some gem destinations that give a similar experience to what you'll find in Western Europe, but because it's not as heavily traveled to, you'll find less crowds and better prices.
One of our favorite destinations is Veliko Tarnovo, deep in the heart of Bulgaria. If you're lucky enough to get to see this part of the world, here are some highlights that you can't miss.
This city is one of the oldest in Bulgaria and is steeped in history — it's the historical and spiritual capital of Bulgaria.
Veliko Tarnovo is translated to "the Great Tarnovo". It's a bit of a mouthful, so you'll usually hear locals shorten it to simply Tarnovo.
Veliko Tarnovo is the perfect size, with around 70,000 residents. It's small enough that it's walkable and friendly, but large enough that you still have so many options for things to do and sites to see. Locals are welcoming and proud of their heritage. The city is nestled down in the valley along the Yantra River, surrounded by lush green trees and lined with historic homes colored in whites, peaches, and oranges. It's charming with cobble stone streets and the weather is beautiful year round!
Tarnovo sits in north central Bulgaria, not far from the Romania border, in the heart of Eastern Europe. You've got the Black Sea coastline to the east and Greece to the south.
This is one of the most iconic sites in Bulgaria and the heart of Veliko Tarnovo, set on top of a hill towering over the city below. The castle complex sits at the center, surrounded by stone walls, and two battle towers. It's complete with a throne hall, a castle church, and the king's chamber. It was quite the complex in its day, acting as the home for multiple royal families.
The history here dates way, way back to the 4th and 5th centuries. To give you an idea of its importance at the time, the stronghold that this fortress had at its peak has historians comparing it to places like Rome and Constantinople. In 1393, Ottoman forces besieged the fortress for 3 months before the castle was ultimately conquered and burned, officially marking the fall of the Bulgarian empire.
It took 50 years to restore (finishing in the early 1980s), and today you can come explore the grounds and get a great view of Veliko Tarnovo!
The Patriarchal Cathedral St. Ascension is the name of the church here. Inside it you'll find murals that an artist created, beautifully bringing Bulgarian history to life. The church is no longer an active place of worship, but it's here for you to explore and admire.
Tips: The ground is cobble stone and it's a bit of a climb up the hill to get there, so wear good shoes. During the summer bring water and try to go earlier in the day to avoid the heat of the sun. If you come during the evening, sometimes there is a sound and light show.
Getting here: It's quite easy to walk from the center of Veliko Tarnovo, so that's typically the preferred route. From the entrance, it's a 15 minute walk uphill to the fortress. Here's the location on maps.
You can also take a taxi or bus to a certain point, then walk up to the fortress.
Cost: There's an entrance fee of 10 leva, which is roughly $6 USD. Tickets can be purchased on site.
There's a small town that sits just outside the fortress that's great for wandering as well. You'll find several restaurants, churches, souvenir shops, etc. So make sure to save some time to walk around this neighborhood as well.
I've never skipped out on exploring an Old Town when seeing a European city and that's the case for Veliko Tarnovo as well. This Old Town gives you all the European charm you're looking for with narrow alleys, cobblestone paths, colorful buildings, artisan workshops, murals, and little cafes.
Artisans
There's a big movement in Veliko Tarnovo to preserve time honored tradition of handicraft making that has been passed down from generation to generation. It's a big part of the culture in Bulgaria, but in this city specifically, to support local artists and small family businesses! You'll be shopping for souvenirs made by local artists themselves (you won't find cheap imports here).
As you wander Old Town, you'll find that many of the shop owners are artisans who are in the shop, actually making their craft right there, showing you how it's done. You're able to really see how much work goes into each of these pieces that you're purchasing which makes your souvenirs just that much more meaningful.
You'll find everything from hand carved wooden trinkets and spoons to painted pottery and colorful tapestries, plus so much more.
This is a section of Old Town that's particularly nice to explore, especially if you're wanting to shop. It's a historic market that was established centuries ago. Today vendors and artisans still make use of its original purpose.
You'll find those handmade souvenirs by local artisans that we mentioned above, but it's also a great spot to grab a bite to eat. There are food stalls and restaurants lining the market with so many options for Bulgarian treats — come try classic banitsa! It's a crispy, flaky pastry brushed with butter or filled with savory things like feta, eggs, or yogurt. There's also chimney cakes (which is a popular treat across much of Europe) and ice cream. There's plenty of options for something savory if you're hungry enough for a full meal as well.
It's not just a shopping market though! It's a lively part of the city, well loved by both locals and tourists alike. It's a place to come hang out and be part of the community — come eat, talk to locals, and enjoy the rich history found in the architecture and cobbled streets.
Tips:
-Most vendors accept cards, but some stalls may only accept cash.
-Come earlier in the day for less crowds and a more relaxed experience.
-Haggle for better prices! It's part of the culture to go back and forth on the price when you're shopping with small vendors. Go out of your comfort zone and see if you can get a deal on your souvenirs.
Getting here: The city is quite walkable, so this may be the best option depending on where you're coming from (and gives you a better chance to enjoy the city on your way). The market is about a 20 minute walk from the fortress at the city center. If you're coming by local bus, take the bus number 10 or 12 towards Varusha-North. Get off at the stop named 'Varusha-North'. The market is a short 5-minute walk from the bus stop; just head towards the main street, and you will see the market ahead.
This is one of the oldest streets in Old Town, lined with 19th-century houses, artisan workshops, and boutique shops. It's known for showing off the beautiful traditional houses and buildings, many of which are painted white.
Don't forget to bring your camera! The buildings here are so photogenic with roses climbing the white walls. You also get panoramic views of nearby Old Town.
This spot gives you another look at history, but it's also backed by the classic view of traditional Veliko Tarnovo homes, lined one by one colored in peaches and whites, topped with orange roofs.
Tsar Ivan Asen II was a key figure in the 2nd Bulgarian empire. As far as the story goes, Asen and his brothers rebelled against the Byzantine overlords and were successful in establishing their own dynasty in Veliko Tarnovo. There's a monument here devoted to their greatness, featuring a massive sword piercing the sky, surrounded by Asen, his brothers Petar and Kaloyan and Asen’s son Ivan, all on horses. There's also a fortress and it's all set near the river, amongst the green trees. It's pretty rad.
Another spot worth stopping by to see in person — this monument is dedicated to Bulgarian soldiers who have been killed at war, paying respect to fallen heroes.
It's surrounded by a small green park. It's actually a popular spot for locals to take photos, so don't be surprised if you see a photoshoot for newlyweds here on a summer day.
As is the case with any good European city, you can expect to find old churches worth photographing sprinkled throughout the city. Aside from the church we mentioned at the fortress, here are a couple others to get you started:
The Nativity of Mary —This Orthodox Cathedral is located in Old Town, so you're likely to encounter it as you wander that neighborhood. Just look for the classic green teal Bulgarian dome rooftops.
Entrance is free! Find it here on maps.
Holy Forty Martyrs — this church is close to the Tsarevets fortress, down by the river, so it's a good one to add on to your day exploring the castle. It was renovated fairly recently and has a pretty little garden too.
Entrance fee: 3 leva (less than $2 USD). Find it on maps.
There are quite a few trails that are perfect for hiking in the mountains surrounding the city.
Komoot is an app that helps you find popular routes around the area for both walking and hiking. It's nice because they include all the details like how difficult the hike is, how far it is, your elevation gain, etc. It gets you the map you can follow right on your phone. Check it out here.
The Love Swing
One trail that's unique enough to have its own mention is the one that leads you to the red wooden swing in the hills surrounding Veliko Tarnovo overlooking the Yantra River. If you're up for a bit of a hike, you can hang out here and get another great view of the city.
About 12 miles northwest of Veliko Tarnovo is a 100 foot waterfall, also known as Kaya Bunar, nestled in the green trees. It flows year round — the water is highest in the spring and it's nice to visit during the fall, but it doesn't dry up in the summer, so you really can visit anytime Bring a picnic lunch!
Keep your eyes open for some stairs to the left of the waterfall. It's the beginning of a short trail (a little under a mile) called the Hotnishki Vodopad eco trail that leads you up some steep stairs, along some wooden bridges, taking you to the top of the waterfall and to some smaller falls further up the river. Some people say that the trail can get rather slippery, especially in the summer, which can be dangerous. Be very cautious of the current conditions if you head up that route.
It's quiet out here, located out in the forest away from the city (which is the best part if you ask me!). To get here, you'll need to catch a ride in a car (you won't find public buses coming out here).
If you have a sweet tooth like me, you'll definitely love Bulgaria. There are lots of yummy things to try around Veliko Tarnovo so keep your eyes peeled while you're exploring and try everything that looks good to you; here are just a few classics to get you started:
There are gelato and little ice cream shops on the street serving up all flavors, so make sure to grab a cup when you're wandering Old Town. FLOR Gelato in particular is a gelato shop to check out — they're from Italy and doing so well that they're standing to expand to other parts of Europe and you're lucky enough to have one in Veliko Tarnovo.
Revane is a sweet cake soaked in a sugary syrup It's light an airy, often flavored with lemon or vanilla. It's similar to Middle Eastern desserts like Basbousa, if you're familiar.
Pastries are the name of the game in Bulgaria. Mekitsi is a deep fried pastry dough, usually covered in powdered sugar or served with Bulgarian yogurt. It's more often had with breakfast (but we love it anytime). If you're looking for more true blue Bulgarian street food, Banitsa is it — another dough filled with things like cheese, eggs, and yogurt.
If you've traveled through Hungary (or many other parts of Europe), you're probably familiar with Chimney Cakes ... a strip of fried dough spiralled into a "chimney" tube and topped with sugar. Yeah, they've got those here too. There's actually a shop in Old Town called "Chimney Cake" that serves up authentic treats like their namesake as well as Bulgarian banitsa.
Сладкопекарна Amaretto is a coffee shop in the city center you might want to check out. It's full of all kinds of pastries and cakes!
Mliako s Oriz (creamy rice pudding) is another traditional dessert. It's a comforting dessert that's warm and mild, topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon. It's actually something that was brought over during the Ottoman Empire days, so that's one example of the Turkish influences here.
Tarnovo is typically best reached by bus since there's not a commercial airport here. If you're coming from another country in Europe, it's usually best to fly into the Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, and then take a bus over. It's about a 3 to 3.5 hour bus ride away.
Once you're in Tarnovo, local buses are the easy and most affordable way to get around the city, although taxis also operate here. It's a very pedestrian friendly city, so walking is also great option, especially around the city center to see places like Old Town.
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